OUT THERE: STEVEN'S KIMBERELY COAST JOURNEY

In mid-August, when the air over Western Australia turns crisp and the land holds its breath between seasons, I boarded True North II for ten days along the Kimberley Coast. I've been fortunate to travel much of Australia, but this destination is one very few get to witness. Remote reefs, thousands of castaway islands, canyons carved over lifetimes, ancient rock art - this bucket-list trip is a truly exceptional wilderness experience with all the trappings of barefoot luxury.

Every element of the landscape here feels alive. The ebb and flow of the largest tropical tides in the world form the beating heart of the Kimberley. They dictate everything. Stand still long enough and you’ll start to understand the Kimberley runs on its own pulse, and the rest of us are just temporary observers.

True North II is purpose-built for this kind of quiet immersion: five tenders, one squirrel helicopter, two five-star chefs who'll never let you go hungry, and a crew of thirteen with that rare mix of capability and charm. With just twenty guests in total, the experience felt exclusive, with the opportunity for conversation if you'd like and the space for quiet when you just want to take it all in.

King George River - The Opening Act...

After a scenic hop by heli from El Questro (via a compulsory “quick fish” — this is the Kimberley, after all), we joined the vessel in Wyndham and steamed through Cambridge Gulf overnight. I woke to the unmistakable red walls of the King George River rising around us.

Everyone talks about the magnificent King George twin falls. Few are able to adequately describe the colours — the cobalt sky, the sandstone stacked like ancient ledgers, the green river curling its way through it all. Oomari, as they are known to the Balanggarra People, hold deep cultural significance - each represents the male and female Wunkurr (Rainbow Serpent). You feel that story as much as see it.

Captain Robb skillfully eased the bow right beneath one of the falls, enough for the braver passengers to stand below and enjoy a freshwater shower. Later, we drifted through the river in tenders, encountering a large saltwater crocodile lazing in the sun - barely bothering to open one eye and acknowledge our presence! Nearby, dugongs flicked their tails are they grazed nearby - quiet, shy, and utterly uninterested in us as we cruised by.

That afternoon’s heli flight gave us the aerial perspective - soaring over Koolama Bay glowing white and gold, and the river’s path snaking inland through steep red rocks and deep green billabongs.

Days spent discovery billabongs, ancient rock art, and the Mitchell Plateau...

Day two delivered us to Vansittart Bay and the Mitchell River. The rock art here is older than most of the world’s civilisations. Dating back to up to 40,000 years old, Gwion Gwion figures — delicate, elongated, dressed in tassels and ochre — appear in overhangs like messages left for whoever is able to find them. The elders prefer these works stay offline, and I’m inclined to agree. Some places deserve to be witnessed, not broadcast.

By mid-morning, we lifted off again to the beautiful billabongs known as Eagle Falls. Picnic tables, shade cloths, cold drinks, and our chefs grilling lunch - luxury, but the sort that complements the landscape instead of competes. We swam in emerald pools, watched a wedge-tailed eagle circle for scraps, and lazed like lizards on warm rock ledges until the sun told us it was time to move.

Fishing, falls and firelight

The next days settled into a rhythm: heli flights at sunrise, barramundi hunts, art sites tucked into cliffs, and waterfalls, each more breath-taking than the last.

The Kimberley is renowned for some of the best reef and game fishing in the world. A Spanish mackerel found its way onto my line — enough to feed the whole group that night. The barramundi, predictably, remained elusive as black-tipped reef sharks hovered nearby, hoping for their share of the bounty.

After enjoying the fruits of our labour, we boarded the heli again bound for Mitchell Falls (Punamii-Uunpuu). The falls unfolded beneath us in four cascading tiers of emerald pools. In the evening, we enjoyed a special beach drink on Cape Voltaire. The crew built a wonderful driftwood fire and handed out delicious watermelon mojitos as the sun dissolved behind the horizon. One of those small, perfect moments that doesn't shape the itinerary, but absolutely makes a trip.

We spent the next morning shucking oysters off the rocks at Winyalkin Island and sipping Virgin Bloody Marys. Natalie, our onboard naturalist, walked us through the wildlife and geology of Katers Island. After, we wandered the sandstone catacombs — a maze carved by time into chambers and tunnels through the rocks.

That evening, a lucky few set off by heli for night under the stars at a remote billabong - they later remarked it was one of the best experiences of their lives.

Hunter River, Mud Crabs & Sunset Summits

Our next port of call was the Hunter River - mangroves thick with life, raptors hunting overhead, crocs popping up (the highest population in all of Kimberley). Some guests chased reef fish while others flew with Bryce, our pilot, through narrow gorges toward Donkin Falls.

A mud crabbing expedition in Porous Creek pulled up a respectable haul - our wire crab traps yielded succulent crab meat enjoyed later in our voyage. That night, a few lucky guests enjoyed wine and cheese on top of Manning Peak as the light went full theatre across Prince Frederick Harbour.

A morning spent at Camp Creek gave us shady rock pools, birdlife, and the kind of freshwater swim that resets your whole system. Lunch was a heli picnic at Melaleuca Falls — deep waterholes, a rope swing, and eucalypts whispering overhead. That night, we all enjoyed plenty of laughs as we dressed for 'Party Night' combined with a spirited quiz and parlour games set up by our enthusiastic crew.

The next day, we traced the Prince Regent River to Kings Cascade, where some guests enjoyed another freshwater shower while others took on a steep walk to the falls source for a refreshing swim. Onwards to Sale River brought a heli fish for barramundi (successful this time!) or billy tea and damper enjoyed alongside croc-spotting and rock art discoveries. Pilot Bryce treated us to a special heli trip up to the gorge for beers enjoyed on sun loungers with stunning views.

Montgomery Reef — which rises dramatically from the ocean as the tide drops — was a highlight. Turtles, rays, sharks, the works. Later, five tenders rafted together at sunset for drinks, snacks, and a full-throated sing-along as Raft Point burned gold behind us.

The grand finale at the famous Horizontal Falls...

On our final day, we walked to McNabb’s Waterhole one last time. We soaked up the incredible peace at this remote location - calm water, bird calls around us - a fitting goodbye to the Kimberley.

The grand finale of the trip arrived with a heli flight soaring over the famous Horizontal Falls - tides muscling through rocky gaps with incredible force, creating a horizontal waterfall effect across the water. The rock faces of Cyclone Creek are 1.8 billion years old - it's hard to wrap your head around that kind of permanence. The beauty of Talbot Bay, with it's over 880 islands, was a spectacular conclusion to our cruise.

Overnight, we steamed toward Broome. Ten days of adventure behind us, leaving with memories that would stay with me forever. I’ve travelled Australia my whole career, but this sits in a category of it's own - surely one of the most wondrous and exceptional Australian adventures. The Kimberley doesn’t need to perform for visitors — it simply exists in its full, unapologetic glory. And if you’re lucky enough, for a brief moment, you get to exist in it too.